Friday, 25 July 2014

Hue, Myself and Mau Than

Lieutenant Colonel Nguyen Van Phan

Arriving at the capital from Cai Lay, the 1st Marine Battalion entered immediately into the fighting to liberate the Co Loa camp of Armour Corps and the Xom Moi district of Gia Dinh province. Following that, the battalion proceeded along Ngo Tung Chau street. At twelve midnight we had a briefing in the battalion, and two hours later were waiting at Tan Son Nhut airport. At four in the morning we embarked the aircraft. To where? Who knew?! We had received neither rations nor any other form of resupply, yet we had left for the airport regardless.
Salvos of enemy shelling, the broken fire of machine guns, and flares suspended in the sky... I left the capital and its war scarred physiognomy behind. The giant C 130 aircraft bore the 800 “Sea Tigers” up into the immense darkness.
“Where are we headed guys?”
Luom, the Commander of the 1st Company replied, “Nha Trang.” He was a native of the town. “I heard that the fighting has been particularly fierce there.” he continued.
Ton, Commander of the 2nd company disagreed and retorted, “Dalat.” - He had been born there.
For his part, Phan Phu Nhan said, “Anywhere is fine. Just changing zones is enough to keep me happy.” Back in military school Phan had always said that had been born in Phu Nhon, near lake Tinh Tam, in the Thanh Hoi district of Hue.
Later, against the landscape of gunfire, torn flesh and shattered bones, and over the crackling of the radio, my radio code name was born: “Phu Nhan”. For some reason it sounded strange to my ears.
“Why is the flight so long?”
The weather was ridiculously bad.
As the wheels of the aircraft touched ground, all eyes were rivetted to the windows... and beheld the sign “Phu Bai”!
The cold wind lashed our skin. White sand stretched out as far as the eye could see. It poured. Lacking warm jackets we could but wrap ourselves in our ponchos. And we watched as the scared inhabitants ran back and forth madly, bowed down with all their belongings. Some went to Truoi. Others headed for Gia Le and An Cuu. Then I thought of Tinh Tam, Phu Bai, Cau Kho. My mother, my aunty, both my elder and younger sisters were somewhere in Hue, but I had no way of finding them. I was worried, my responsibilities were heavy. As I lay in bed that night, memories of my youth, and my student days came back to me: they were so beautiful, so light, so innocent.
 At 10 am a convoy of GMC transported us to Hue. Passing by Gia Le, the civilians were in complete chaos. At An Cuu, the houses along the empty streets all had their doors shut and shutters down. Along National Route 1, from Hue to Phu Bai, Airborne soldiers supported each other as they trudged along. They threw pitying glances at us, warning us of the danger. Manh, a classmate of mine who was an Airborne Captain, said:
“Phan ! Hue is in a terrible condition - it has practically been wiped out. Thua, who was in our class, was killed. Pham Nhu Da Lat was wounded.”
Manh himself, had bandages all over his body, and two soldiers were supporting him to Phu Bai Airport. Manh added: “Phan! Be careful! We didn't have any firesupport, and there was no food, no supplies, and the weather's foul. The enemy have occupied the entire city - including the Imperial Quarters at Gia Hoi. They already have several strongholds and outposts - only the 1st Infantry Division's Headquarters was left.”
Later, I heard that the Airborne Brigade Commander, Colonel Le Quang Luong, on learning that Brigadier General Truong was in imminent danger, had ordered his brigade to march kilometres to Hue to rescue his brother-in-arms.
Such was the bond forged in war. His Brigade suffered heavy losses, but he had gone beyond the call of duty in saving his brothers. I salute you, Brigade Commander, with the utmost respect.
The convoy stopped on the side of the Faculty of Literature. Across the road was a newly built “model school”. Hue radio station was also opposite. In front of us was Truong Tien bridge, one of the landmarks of Hue. I had crossed that bridge thousands of times, and held many memories. I looked at Dong Ba Market, and Tran Hung Dao Street and felt great sorrow overcoming me. Part of the market roof had been destroyed. Billows of smoke soared skyward. From end to end, Tran Hung Dao Street, once so busy, was completely empty. To the right of Gia Hoi Bridge, more emptiness, and more billows of smoke.
The whole city had died... Oh, Hue, my Hue! It was so desolate and lifeless. A bridge to the past had been broken. A white mourning band was wrapped around Hue.
We boarded naval boats at the foot of the Truong Tien Bridge, and sailed down stream along the blue Perfume River, past Gia Hoi, and then left to Hang Be River. Dong Ba Bridge was still standing, and La Ngu Stationary Store, which my classmates and I had once frequented was still there. The fleet continued to sail, pass the Mu Doi Rice Shop - bringing to my mind the owner's beautiful and charming daughter. All the males of Hue, at one time or another, had at least visited the shop once to contemplate her beauty! Beyond was my old school - the Aurora, where I had studied year ten. Again, a sea of memories.
We landed at Bao Vinh. The inhabitants were amazed to see such a large unit land. I led my unit into Small Mang Ca, heading for the Nguyen Tri Phuong Hospital. The enemy saluted us with 122mm salvos and 107 mm rockets.
We lay down close to the walls to avoid them, scanning the landscape for places to defend. I ordered my executive commander to review the unit and give the orders for dinner to be prepared. First Lieutenant Su, was an enthusiastic, multi-talented graduate of the 19th Class of the Da Lat Academy. He was a table tennis champion in Da Lat, and was also the Nha Trang soccer team goal keeper.
I attended an urgent and important briefing for the Battalion. The Battalion Commander said:
“Phu Nhan, you know the terrain so you lead the movement. Depart tomorrow at 8.00 am. Ton and Luom are to follow. Tong and his 4th Company Commander are to advance last.”
I was to occupy Tran Cao Van Primary School. In front of it was an Ordnance Camp where an ARVN Company had been. But whether they were still there was a matter of speculation. I asked:
“What about the Citadel Airstrip?” But the situation was also unknown.
“Major, do you know the condition of Dai Noi Imperial area?”
“No, I don't know... but the enemy have thoroughly set up strongholds and outposts everywhere. All gates of the Citadel have been occupied by them. The Right Gate, the An Hoa Gate, Dong Ba Gate, and the Flagpole...  all are in their hands.”
In my mind's eye, I had a very clear map of the area of operation, but unfortunately I had no idea as to how I would carry it out. I tried to find the shortest and safest route for my unit to reach the target. There were many routes to Tran Cao Van Primary School. I had walked to and fro from the place since the age of nine numerous times. All of these paths had once led me towards dreams and aspirations. Now, I needed a path, free of blood, for my troops.
At 8.00 am, everybody was packed and ready to go. The distance of 300m from Mang Ca to my house seemed to stretch on and on. I was anxious for the safety of my mother, my aunt, my elder sister and younger brother. I had no idea of what had happened to them.
Second Lieutenant Duat marched first. He was the 2nd Platoon leader. He was a graduate of the 21st Class of the Da Lat National Military Academy. He was zealous and daring, a gambler, and a connoisseur of women.
My staff and I moved next in line, followed by Second Lieutenant Nghenh and his the 2nd platoon. Nghenh, had been a Commando du Nord, an experienced, calm but bold man. He loved poker but played small stakes, and had no interest whatsoever in women.
Next was Master Sergeant Ma Khen, the 3rd Platoon leader. He had been a Commando du Sud - a tough, reticent man who preferred drinking over women. Last was Master Sergeant Hai, the Artillery platoon leader. He had been a Commando du Nord, highly experienced and intrepid. He neither drank, smoked or womanized.
The overjoyed citizens of Hue appeared along the route to encourage us. They had been subjected to the most pitiful conditions. Gradually, the faces of my neighbours and acquaintances appeared amongst the crowd. They waved and extended their hands towards me. Mrs Doi, Mrs Dau, Mrs Ba, Mr Sung, Mr Dung, Mr Thien - the owner of the ping pong table... all waved and yelled:
“Phan! There's Phan !” The excited calls of my neighbours grew louder and more numerous as I progressed along the route.
The alley next to Tinh Tam Lake led to my home. My mother! My Aunt...and sister...and brother were all there! I was so tense. I ran to embrace my mother. They all greeted me tearfully. My younger brother was running around excitedly. My mother shouted at him:
“Run inside and get the dried fish and the glutinous rice cake for your brother!” And into my hands, she pressed a bottle of Nhi Thien Duong oil. “...to protect you from ill-winds...” she said.
My soldiers passed by, staring curiously at my mother's bald head. She had shorn all her hair off in the belief that it would bring me luck. I enquired after my home and relatives.
“Mr Que's house was shelled twice but no one was hurt. A corner of our roof has collapsed, and the peach tree has been felled. We have no news of your friend Chi.”
Chi was my classmate in the 17th Class of the Da Lat National Military Academy. There was a bitter taste in my mouth. “I have to go now, mother. Please don't worry about me.”
My mother burst into tears, breaking my heart. Their tears and cries of “Phan” and “Brother” rang across Lake Tinh Tam. Their pride and love reminded me of my responsibility to them and to the nation. My blood boiled in my arteries, and my two signalmen had to run to keep up with me as I strode to the fore of the column.
At the end of Tinh Tam lake was a street of the same name. I ordered my unit to turn right in the direction of Ngu Dat House, so that the right flank of my unit was always protected by the wall and the lake. At the end of the street, the left turn would have taken us to the primary school. But I did not choose that route. I continued down a narrow alley. All my childhood activities had been carried out here. Stealing tamarines, mangos, and “sau” (a sour fruit) from the trees, digging for lotus bulbs, visiting my girlfriend. Now I was playing real life war games.
At the Centre of Agricultural, there was still no enemy reaction. I told my troops to remain on one side of the road. An elderly person informed me that the enemy had fired strongly down this very road from the Hoa Binh Gate of the Dai Noi Imperial Palace. As for the airstrip, there had been fierce fighting around there for some days.
I pointed at the road and directed Duat:
“Cross this road and you will reach a small group of houses. Further there will be a concrete sewerage tunnel, to the left of which will be the Ordnance Camp... Nghenh and Ma Khen, protect Duat's right flank, and then cross the road later to join me.”
The width of the road was only 5m, but it took us an hour to cross. Six Marines died during the crossing. I ordered my troops to stop under the sewerage pipe. The airstrip was deserted. I said to Duat:
“Let one squad go first to set a bridge on the other side of this sewerage pipe. Then lead all of your unit to the Ordinance Camp. Wait for me there.”
The walls were higher than our heads, so it was impossible to communicate with those inside. I ordered everyone to lie low against the wall, then, accompanied by my body guards, I crawled to the main gate. Recognizing the steel helmets, field jackets and Y shaped shoulder belts, my orderly shouted:
“Hi ! The Marines are here.”
Bullets sprayed close to our heads as we crawled inside the camp. First Lieutenant Cat, who had been a goal keeper in the Hue Soccer team, was the commander of the camp. He spoke with a heavy Hue accent.
“Captain, for seven days, no one could enter or leave. They completely besieged us. The maternity hospital behind the school was also occupied. All the civilians have fled. They shelled us with all sorts of rounds: 61mm, 82mm mortars, 107mm and 122mm rockets. I've tried my best to defend, but without communication, I have no idea what is going on out there.”
I went back to the Battalion Commander and reported. He ordered:
“Phu Nhan, you are to occupy Tran Cao Van School and clear the area around it. The battalion staff and I will occupy the ordnance camp.”
I observed the terrain once more. In front of the school was a spiritualist medium's shop, and a barber's straw hut. Near by was a "T" junction, the perpendicular road of which led straight to the Sap Gate. Tran Cao Van and Dao Duy Tu School were at opposing ends of the horizontal of the “T” junction. We could see four or five heads bobbing up and down behind the fence of Tran Cao Van School.
Duat advanced towards the medium's shop. The enemy from within the school opened fire immediately and launched a B40 rocket. I ordered Nghenh and Ma Khen to keep the enemy busy, and Duat was able to occupy the shop without losses. I ordered Master Sergeant Hai to bring two machine guns and one recoiless rifle to reinforce Duat, who was supposed to provide firesupport for Ma Khen to storm the school. After forty five minutes, of feinting and giving strong firepower, Ma Khen's experience and boldness enabled him to occupy one classroom in the school. Nghenh rushed in with his men, and together, they searched and destroyed the enemy. Enemy firepower from other directions concentrated at the school. But the walls stood firm. I called Su:
“Is the Artillery available? Request Great Eagle “Thanh Hoa” (code name) to fire at the corner of the Citadel for me.”
But even as the evening fell, there was still no artillery. Seven dead Marines already paved the road, another three severely wounded. Moving closer to Duat, I told him to bring 57 recoiless rifles, and to aim the fire at the corner of the citadel. They fired profusely, not caring about the result. In fact, an explosion was actually needed.
From across an empty piece of land, moving shadows were seen inside small brick houses. “Now that is just too tempting. Let me blow the house.” Duat said, turning his rifle to take aim. I spotted a woman. “Stop firing!” I shouted. “That's the house of my teacher Tiem.” Crossing the land which separated us I visited my teacher's wife and children, though I did not see my teacher himself. I introduced myself as one of his old pupils, and said that he had taught me history and geography at Bo De school. I advised his wife to go down town, then returned to my post, vaguely sad somehow.
Up until now, there was still no Artillery available. Duat ordered his unit to dig fox holes and trenches. For my part, I ordered him to keep the position whilst we awaited the arrival of the Battalion. My body guards and I, and a few signalmen went to the barber's hut to observe the T junction and the corner of the citadel. I heard a woman moaning, and saw her writhing. The moaning lowered to a faint sound, and though she lay in the dark corner of a hut, I could see that half her body was completely covered with blood. She had obviously been wounded, but notwithstanding that, had delivered herself of a foetus, which being so premature, resembled more of a lizard than an actual child. I could not endure the tragic scene, and ordered the body of the foetus to be buried; then, I had the mother transferred back to the Ordnance Camp so that Dr Tuu could tend to her.
Until now, 13 Marines had died to pave the way for the unit, three more had been severely wounded. That night, the Battalion staff reached the Camp. The following morning, the Battalion Commander ordered Captain Da to take charge of both Luom's 1st Company, and Ton's 2nd Company to go and occupy the The Maternity Hospital. Although the Maternity was but 30m away, and separated only by a small pond, it was captured after 8 hours of fighting, during which time 50 Marines lost their lives. Ton was wounded from the first; Loc, the Company executive officer replaced him. During the next 10 days, both sides were separated from each other by only a road, but neither would let up. The inclement weather hardly helped the situation. The enemy's raids on Luom and Loc's respective positions were repelled. The Marines had also tried to cross the road, but without much success. Both sides could clearly see the other's medevac endeavours. I had to replace Luom, whose platoon had suffered heavy casualties. The Marines inched forwards. We were in close proximity to the enemy now. A raised helmet was liable to be riddled with bullets. We succeeded in occupying Luom's position after half a day of fighting. Both Luom and Tong moved back to defend the Battalion staff. As dusk fell, different types of enemy artillery and mortar took turns exploding, the whole night long. Bodies of dead Marines lay on the road; they had begun to swell up already, but they could not be recovered. About four or five NVA corpses also lay there, but their comrades did not dare retrieve them. We tried to keep our positions, but at the same time also attempted numerous forays, but to no avail: we were still unable to traverse the road.
On a diagonal slant from the Maternity, at the end of the road was a two storey house. And from its vantage point, the enemy's machine guns positioned inside basically had complete control of the road. The two which we could see were under the control of a communist girl in a long grey blouse. Her hair hung long down her back, as for her face it was difficult to make out. Wherever her finger pointed the machine guns would spew forth a spray of bullets. Taking aim with my M16, I fired twice, but missed her. She had ducked behind a door: she never reappeared.
For a period of 20 days we lay there, enduring the enemy artillery, shelling, and sniping. At night, each side tried to intercept the other's radio communication, and when successful, insulted each other. Following their communication one night, a particular phrase caught my attention: “the pigeons have finished the grain!”. I read it to mean that their ammunitions were depleted. It occurred to me that if we didn't pre-empt them and remain where we were, we would soon lose our position. Our corporal strength had been depleted by the heavy casualties, and morale was severely dampened. If we did not storm them, they were sure to storm us. I reported to the Battalion Commander.
“Major, please give me the 2nd Company so I can attack. Morale here is low, and we are very weak.”
The Battalion Commander refused. “Try to stand firm...” was all he said.
But I persisted. “At least give permission to organize a raid. I will lead a small group across the road, raid them, and withdraw. We need to show them that we are still able to kill them.”
“Make a plan, and let me know...” The Battalion Commander said.
In my bunker, my staff awaited me. Loc, Su, Duat, Nghenh, Hai and Ma Khen were all there. I said to them:
“I am sick of lying here waiting for death. I want to carry out a raid and then retreat.”
They were silent. I added:
“Tomorrow at 4.00 am, we will start, and if we are able to keep a new position, we will continue to advance. I will now divide you into four groups: The first group, will be composed of myself, Dieu, Viet, Can, Du and Phuc the signalman. Dat, you and three of your most courageous men will make up the second group. Nghenh, choose three of your best men and make up the third group. The fourth group will be Master Sergent Hai and three others. Remember to equip lightly! Take 20 grenades each, and two curved M-16 bullet clips, bound in reverse position.”
Su and Loc were to lead soldiers to the edge of the road. They were to watch out for either green smoke, which meant that the everyone was to cross or yellow smoke which meant they were to provide intense fire coverage for us to retreat.
I looked at Duat, Nghenh and Hai for a long moment, and said: “I've followed the enemy radio... it seems as if they are lacking ammunition. That's why I've decided to raid them today.” Then, in a cold and serious voice. I said: “Duat and Nghenh, I order you to accompany me on this mission. But Hai, I realise that you have several children, so you may have the option of choosing to participate. This is a very dangerous operation, and we may not return. If you choose to remain here, I promise I will not think less of you for it.”
After a moments thought, Master-Sergeant Hai answered: “With your permission sir, I would like to stay.” I asked Master Sergeant Ma Khen instead, and he was happy to participate. He also asked permission to bring along Corporal Muoi.
“Now, go and choose your men, and come back and present to me.”
It was pointless to fear death, as it was the only way to save the unit.
At 4.00 pm, the leaders of the groups came back and with them was First Lieutenant Su. I asked them one last time.
“If anyone feels that they are not up to the task, let me know now.” Nobody answered. I requested Su to remind Loc of the significance of the green and yellow smoke. I led the three group leaders in a crawl back to the bunker at the outpost, near the intersection.
I pointed to each of the houses on the other side. “The first one, close to the intersection is my target; the second one with the fence is Nghen's; Ma Khen will aim for the one with the longan tree in front of it, and the house with the banana trees is for Duat to take. You must work out for yourselves the best way to approach the targets. You don't need to report back. Just try to occupy the place.”
I observed my target. It was a brick house with a separate outdoor toilet built of stone on one side. Closer to the road was a well. In the front yard were two “vu sua” trees, laden with fruit. I realized what I had to do to occupy the house. “Any other ideas?” I asked. “At 4.00am, I'll occupy first. Then, at all cost, you must occupy the positions I point out.”
I returned to confide to Dieu, Viet, Can, Du and Phuc, my signalmen. “There is no need to stand guard tonight. Just come and report to me at 3.00 in the morning.” I then went to report to the Battalion Commander.
“It's too dangerous. You'll all die,” was what he said. “Major, if we don't do it now, a cough from the enemy would be enough to send our soldiers running.”
He finally agreed. “Remember, if things are going badly, return immediately.” I acquiesced but I had other ideas.
I spent the rest of the night contemplating tactics for covering ground from the outpost, to the concrete well, to the toilet, and to the rear of the house. Before crawling to the departure line, I once again reminded Su and Loc of their duties. Ten minutes before 4.00 am, my group reached the outpost. It was raining - Hue had caught the tail of the cold new year rains. It was pitch dark, and visibility was nought. Fearing that we would fire at one another by mistake, we waited till five o'clock. It was not until half past five that the concrete well could be discerned. My heart thumped loudly. Only four leaps were needed to cross the road, but we could easily end up in the land of the dead rather than the other side. Nobody in the last twenty days, had succeeded in crossing it alive. Now it was time to breach the divide. I should do it, I thought to myself - I had to do it, to save my brothers. With that in mind, I dashed to the concrete well. Dieu, Viet, Can, Du followed me. We leant against the well, sweating profusely, despite the fact that it was bitterly cold.
Dieu and Can invaded the toilet. A volley of bullets crackled close by. I turned to look at the road, and saw Phuc and the radio lying flat on the asphalt surface beneath a spray of enemy bullets. Their bullets came from three different directions and concentrated on my position.
“Du, Viet...occupy the kitchen!” I shouted as I ran to join Dieu and Can. Bullets flew everywhere, and a B40 rocket exploded right above my head. Tiny pieces of shrapnel stung my face, and my hair, eyebrows, beard, and moustache were singed. The other two were similarly affected. As the toilet was too small, we left it for the kitchen.
“Dieu and Du, search and occupy the front part of the house.”
Can and I followed them, leaving Viet behind. Dieu and Can guarded the main door, which opened up to the front yard. Du and I kept watch at the window that overlooked the potato garden.
The sky was bright at this stage. I listened carefully, but heard nothing inside the house. I crawled back to the well, and saw that Duat, Nghenh, and Ma Khen, were still on the other side of the road. I caught their attention and signaled them to come with my index finger. It would have been foolish to shout the order. They nodded, and I returned to the house.
Not long after, grenades, and firearms exploded to my right, and I knew that my men had tried to cross."Did you see anything, Du?” He shook his head. Through the wall, I suddenly heard the sound of whispering. There were about seven or eight people. My attempt to push the window a fraction brought a volley of shots from a window from the house opposite. Suddenly, Du pointed at the potato trees - eleven NVA soldiers, dressed in Nam Dinh khaki, and armed with AK and B40 rocket launchers were inching their way towards us. I was about to squeeze the trigger of my gun, but Du restrained me, and pointed to the grenades. I placed my gun aside noiselessly, and took hold of two grenades in either hand. My teeth clenched around the grenade bolts. Du did the same. We threw the four grenades simultaneously ... the explosion tore the sky open, making room for the roar of four more grenades. Outside the wall, we heard a shout, then groans... finally silence. Some survivors crawled close to the wall, leaving five bodies lying four metres away amongst the rows of potatoes. A gun crackled to life, and I heard someone shout. “I'm dying, Captain!” Stunned, I turned around and saw Du, whose left hand was holding the small finger of his right hand, his intestines pouring out of his abdomen. He fell down lifeless. Too busy watching the window, he had failed to see that there was a small breach in the wall that had allowed Death to look in. An enemy had stuck the point of an AK in, and discharged an entire clip into Du's abdomen. I fired my M16, through the window, and threw my grenades. Two of us were gone, only four were left to hold the position.
To my right, the noise of firearms continued. At 10.30 am, I ordered Dieu to check up on Nghenh, Duat and Ma Khen. Though the four houses were less than ten minutes away from each other, it took Dieu an hour to return.
“They have all occupied their positions." Duat's group has lost one, and another was wounded. Nghenh's group was in a similar state. Ma Khen has lost two men. Altogether, six are dead and two wounded. That leaves eleven of us. Dieu crawled back to the well, and tried to retrieve the radio from the middle of the road. Marines from the other side of the road lassoed it with a rope and threw him the end, enabling him to bring it back to me. Can turned it on and I contacted the Battalion. “Great Eagle, I am going to overrun the enemy position with Loc's 2nd Company and my own 3rd Company.”
“Why haven't you reported back earlier? I order you to retreat now!” The Battalion Commander demanded. “Sir, we have a good chance. Our fighting spirits are up - please let us proceed.” I requested earnestly. 
Without bothering to use radio code, the Battalion Commander shouted: “If you don't withdraw now, I'll court-marshall you!”
Angry, I switched off the radio without answering him. I weighed up my chances, and thought carefully. It was still cold, but I continued to sweat like pig. We had spent hours capturing the targets, and had finally succeeded in crossing the infernal road. It was such a waste. But eventually, I told Dieu to pass on the order to retreat. Each group was to withdraw with the wounded. The dead had to be left behind.
Crossing the road had been difficult, but returning was practically impossible. The slightest movement invited enemy fire from three different positions. The Marines on the other side watched us intently. My group crawled back to the concrete well. Suddenly, from the corner of eyes, we saw shadows dashing across the road. We saw our brothers from the opposide pull the figures to safety. The desparadoes were in fact the severely wounded soldiers whom we thought were incapacitated. Having little to lose, they had made the dash. Enemy bullets sprayed everywhere. We lost contact with the other raiding groups. Dieu and Can were still in the house. The enemy controlled the road with their heavy and middle size machine guns. Su and Loc responded with their firepower from across the road.
Launching myself my kicking against the well, I raced across the road, rolling, leaping, and running as I went. I fell flat on the other side, and the Marines quickly dragged me in. I ordered Su and Loc to fire in spurts to allow the others to return. I saw Viet getting ready at the well. His eyes were wide open, staring at us. I felt a great pity for him. The width of the road was the only thing that separated Life and Death. My heart beat loudly, my anxiety mounting for my men. I shouted: “Fire!” Shadows sprang across the road. My heart stuck in my throat. Explosions blinded me temporarily. Opening my eyes, a flood of relief overcame me, as I recognized Nghenh, Duat, Ma Khen, and the others. I hugged each and everyone of them. Can and Viet, rushed to me and hugged me. “Captain, your hair! Your moustache! Your eyebrow! They're burnt... and your face is completely lacerated.” Taking my combat fatigues from me, my men checked my body for injuries. Disregarding the enemy, the whole company stood up, and happily stared at each other. I called the Battalion and told them that we had returned safely. Suddenly, I felt a sickening feeling in my stomach. “Where's Dieu? Has anyone seen Dieu?”
“The last time we saw him, he was on the other side. He was crying as he tried to look for your body.”
“My God! I have to go and save him! Can and Viet, follow me.”
We crawled to the edge of the road. Suddenly, a figure bounded over the fence of the house, leapt over the well, and dashed across the road. 
“Have you seen Big brother?” It was Dieu, and his face was wet with tears. I rushed to him and said. “I was going over to look for you!”
“They told me you had been killed! So I searched the house over and over. Your mother had asked me personally to to look after you. So I have to bring you back to her, dead or alive.” He was so happy to see me alive that he wept and wept. In the ruthless war, men forged brotherhood, anointed with tears.
At 6.00pm, I reported to the Battalion Commander. He reprimanded me. “That was such a dangerous mission. What would I have said to the Marine Brigade if you were stuck on the other side?” I let him berate me, then asked: “Major, please give me permission to attack them tomorrow. I am sure my unit can overrun them. I will need Loc's 2nd Company and Luom's 1st Company. And I will only need two tanks to cover my flanks.”
“Are you positive of winning?”
“Yes, Sir! If I should succeed, please allow me to storm the Flagpole if there is enough time.”
The Battalion Commander and I both reported to Colonel Yen ("Old Man Huh"), who was Brigade Assistant Commandant, and he gave me the go-ahead.
On my return, I summoned all my platoon leaders for a briefing.
“Tomorrow, at 8.00 am, we will advance in parallel formation with the 3rd Company on the left, the 2nd Company on the right. We will be using the road leading to the Sap Gate. After the two tanks finish providing fire support, the two companies will charge forward quickly to overun the enemy outposts. Don't seize weapons at this stage. The 1st Company will do that later. Leave all rucksacks and food behind, and equip yourselves lightly. When you get to the citadel gate, stop there, and wait for me.”
At exactly 8.00 am, the units deployed. Two heavy Ontos Tanks advanced, each equipped with six 106 mm cannons. I showed the targets to the American armour men, then ordered them to fire. I wanted the targets flattened to facilitate the advance of my men. But for some unknown reason, after only firing one round each, the tanks turned around and disappeared. I was very worried because the Marines had already deployed. I was forced to order them to charge. I shouted “Charge!” till I was hoarse, but no one moved. In front of us was the road. After twenty one days of bloodshed, they were afraid to cross in case they enter the realms of Death. Furious, I swore, and grabbed an M60 machine gun, fired a volley of shots, and crossed the road with Viet and Dieu, my two bodyguards, and my two signalmen in tow. Once over, we dashed forwards firing all the way. Behind me, I heard my troops shout “Charge!”, followed by the sounds of boots on asphalt. They soon overtook me, and the column quickly advanced.
M16 bullets sprayed everywhere, and grenades ripped the enemy outposts apart. We tore them apart, crushed them, smashed them, overran them... we stormed forwards. At 3.00 pm, we reached the group of houses close to the Sap Gate. The soldiers congratulated each other, and slapped one another across the back. I roared with laughter and relief. These particular houses were very familiar to the troops, having once been occupied by ladies of questionable repute. Women's clothing and mysterious articles littered the floors. At the sight of these things, the soldiers were incited to recount bawdy jokes and tales of conquests. For forty days straight, they had been busy liberating the Capital, and deploying in Hue. And during that time, they only knew blood and sweat. They missed the company of the fairer sex badly.
I ordered: “Loc and Su, organize the troops in groups of ten, and get them to move close to the wall of the Citadel. Then organize other groups of ten, to leap upon the shoulders of the first lot to scale the ramparts. Once on top, they are to fire maximally to provide cover for the next group of men ascending.”
My men were magnificent... a million times better than in the movies. Small fire arms and big guns crackled incessantly. Two groups managed to scale the ramparts, holding their positions. I ordered the rest to bring tables and chairs to help scale the walls. Above, the enemy artillery gunfire was very intense. I wanted desperately to mute them. This target was of the greatest sentimental and historical value. It was a priceless symbol to the Vietnamese people, and especially to natives of Hue.
Duat and twenty other Marines captured six large guns that had been used as decorations. From there, he kept the enemy at Ngo Mon Gate at bay, and supported Nghenh and Khen in recapturing the Flagpole. The enemy struggled as my men sped towards the Flagpole. Eventually, they were subdued. Ecstatic over the victory, Corporal Hanh shouted “The Marines!” and took out a flare to celebrate. Too engross in his rapture, he failed to notice that the flare he was thumping on the ground was pointed at him. It ripped his abdomen open, but keeping a brave face, he smiled heartily and said: “I'm alright, Captain!” But in my heart, I knew my brave corporal was going to die - which he did not long after.
From his fatigues, a Marine drew forth a huge South Vietnamese flag, and dragged down the Communist rag. I remembered Lieutenant General Le Nguyen Khang's order: “Even if there is only one Marine left, the national flag must be raised at Phu Van Lau Flagpole.” I called the Battalion for verification, but the order came back telling me to wait.
Afterwards, I was told that when the Brigadier General Truong, the commander of the 1st Infantry Division, heard that the Flagpole had been recaptured, he beseeched the Marine Corps to give his Division the honour of raising the flag. The next morning, on the 24th of February, Major Pham Van Dinh led a unit of the 1st Infantry Division from Thuong Tu Gate to Phu Van Lau to carry out the flag raising ceremony.
I looked at the flag, and was truly proud that as a son of Hue, I had participated in reinstating it in its rightful place. First Lieutenant Su reported that with the death of Corporal Hanh, we were left with sixty seven survivors. Initially, we had had more than 170 men. After twenty four days and three targets (the road, Sap Gate, and the Flagpole) we were thus reduced.
The next morning, I rearranged the position of my unit to Dong Ba Gate. We hunted down the enemy around the area of the small hospital, the Xep Market, and the Anh Danh Intersection. My headquarters was in a pawnshop, which was owned by the father of Ton and Luu, my childhood classmates. But they were gone.
That afternoon, I met several old friends. The situation was not completely safe, but we could afford to be more at ease. I ordered my men to continue searching for the enemy. A sentry reported a suspicious character was lurking about. He led me to a skinny old man, dressed in a ragged coat. His hair was unkempt, and he was mumbling absentmindedly. I stared at him, stunned. It was my old teacher, Mr Cao Huu Triem!
“My God, Master!” I yelled his name several times loudly, but he did not recognize me. I held his hand, and bade him to sit down. “Don't you know me? I was your student for years!”
Staring at me with haggard eyes, he said. “I haven't eaten for days.”
My soldiers brought some plain rice and chicken, and gave him hot tea. Eventually he recovered from his exhaustion, and told me that his wife and children had fled to Da Nang, and that his eldest son had been killed by the enemy. He did not want to return to his desolate house. Then he cried - huge tears rolled down his wrinkled cheeks.
“If that is the case then, please stay here to be safe.”
My soldiers took care of him for four days, while I arranged for him to go Da Nang to rejoin his family. After that, I lost contact with him, but for a long time, I prayed for him.
Born and bred in Hue, I tried to do my very best for my native land. My blood, and the blood of my men, and brothers-in-arms had risen like a tidal wave, and washed the enemy from Hue. But in the end, the Perfume River swept my friends and me to the ocean, and scattered us far and wide.
Twenty years later, I still recall those times, and I pray always, that one day, at that same Flagpole in the Imperial Capital, we will have a second chance to raise the national flag in honour of the land that had given birth to me, raised me, and nurtured me
.
Lt Colonel Nguyen Van Phan



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